Tirana is perhaps one of the most unusual capitals in Europe. It lacks that typical “old-world charm”—you won’t find the narrow, cobblestone streets that everyone usually loves. However, it boasts many new, modern skyscrapers with soul. These aren’t soulless glass boxes like those in Dubai; they have character: some are shaped like a head, others like a map of Albania, and some are draped in greenery, reminiscent of modern Asian architecture. So, when traveling through Albania, you definitely need to spend a couple of days in Tirana.
Navigation:
- Founding of the city
- Main square
- Skyscrapers
- Bunkers and Bunk’Art museums
- The Pyramid
- Dajti Mountain Cable Car
- Cafes and restaurants
History of the City
Modern Tirana was founded in 1614 by Sulejman Bargjini Pasha, a local ruler from Mullet. The city grew throughout the 18th century but only became the capital in 1920. In the early 20th century, Tirana’s center was designed by Italian architects. They were the primary initiators of the main square’s construction, Skanderbeg Square.
From 1944 to 1991, the city underwent a “reconstruction” in the Soviet style:
- The former Old Bazaar of Tirana and the Orthodox Cathedral were demolished to make way for the Palace of Culture (number 4 on the map below).
- The municipal building was blown up, and the National Historical Museum was built in its place (number 5 on the map below).
- The building that housed the Albanian Parliament was turned into a Puppet Theater (number 6 on the map below).
Skanderbeg Square
Skanderbeg Square is the main square of the city.
It was awarded the prize for the best urban public space in Europe in 2018.
Coordinates: Skanderbeg Square
Skanderbeg Square is a large open space in the city center surrounded by buildings. The square looks somewhat empty until events take place, which happen quite frequently: Christmas markets, concerts, and city festivals.
At the center of the square stands the monument to Skanderbeg.
1. Skanderbeg Monument
Skanderbeg (Gjergj Kastrioti) is the national hero of Albania, a commander and ruler (May 6, 1405 – January 17, 1468). He went down in history as the leader of a massive rebellion against the Ottoman Empire. Skanderbeg achieved something vital: he united the fragmented Albanian principalities and successfully held back the Turkish invasion for over 25 years. Although resistance was broken after his death, he remains a key figure in Albanian identity.
In the 20th century, a monument to Stalin stood in Skanderbeg’s place (from 1951 to 1968). In 1968, Stalin’s statue was moved elsewhere, and Skanderbeg took his place. Today, Stalin’s monument in Tirana can be found in the backyard of the National Gallery of Figurative Arts.
2. Et’hem Bey Mosque
Also located on the square is the country’s most important mosque. Construction was started in 1789 by Molla Bey and finished in 1823 by his son, Haxhi Et’hem Bey. Uniquely, the interior is decorated with landscape frescoes, which is unusual for Islamic culture. Tourists can visit the mosque when prayers are not in session.
In 1967, Enver Hoxha’s communist regime declared Albania an atheist state and closed all religious institutions. The mosque was granted cultural monument status and restored in the 1960s-70s but remained unused for worship. On January 18, 1991, defying government bans, 10,000 people entered the mosque with flags—the police did not intervene. This event was a turning point for religious freedom in Albania.
The mosque is open to tourists of all faiths outside of prayer times. A dress code is required: covered shoulders and knees, a headscarf for women, and shoes must be removed.
3. Clock Tower
Located right behind the mosque, it was built in 1822. In 1928, the tower was reconstructed, and its height was increased to 35 meters.
During WWI in 1916, the clock was damaged. It took until 1928 to install a new German mechanism purchased for 13,300 gold francs, funded by Tirana’s wealthiest families and the city authorities. The watchmaker Arif Tufina and his sons installed it. Because the new mechanism was larger than the original tower, they had to add another 5 meters and a new roof.
The clock was destroyed again by WWII bombings and replaced in 1946 with a Roman-numeral clock from a church in Shkodër. In 1970, that was replaced with a Chinese model. The tower was restored again in 1981 and 1999.
Anyone can climb the tower. The entrance fee is 200 Lek.
Key figures:
- Tower height: 35 meters
- Inside is a spiral wooden staircase with 90 steps
4. National Theatre of Opera and Ballet of Albania
Official website: www.tkob.gov.al.
Even if you aren’t attending a show, the square in front of the theater is a pleasant place for walks and photos.
Tickets are only sold at the box office, in cash, and only in Albanian Lek.
5. National Historical Museum
Opened on October 28, 1981. The museum showcases the stages of Albania’s development. Across 8 pavilions, there are about 6,200 exhibits dating from the 4th century BC to modern times.
Museum website: https://www.mhk.gov.al/
6. Puppet Theater
Built in 1924, this building originally served as an Officers’ Club, then as Parliament. In the 1950s, it was repurposed for children. It was last fully renovated in 2019 following the strong earthquake in Albania.
Skyscrapers
Those were the historical and cultural buildings. Now let’s move on to my favorite new developments, which have been designed with real vision.
Since Tirana doesn’t have a strict historic preservation zone like other European capitals, there is nothing to stop architects from building in any shape or height.
Skanderbeg’s House (Tirana’s Rock)
In addition to the monument, a building featuring the image of the national hero is being constructed on the square. By 2026, it is nearly finished. It looks stunning both day and night when the integrated lights on each floor are turned on.
Designed by the Dutch firm MVRDV, the building is also known as “Tirana’s Rock.” The facade is covered in balconies whose shapes form the features of the hero’s face, including the nose and ears. The glass railings have a gradient finish from milky white to transparent. The balconies feature built-in planters for greenery. The building also has a rainwater collection system.
“Tirana’s Rock” is one of the largest buildings in the world that also serves as a figurative sculpture.
Key figures:
- Height: 85 meters
- 26 floors: top 20 are residential, floors 2-5 are offices, and the ground floor is commercial space.
Alban Tower
Designed by Archea Associati, these four structures represent a tree. They share one “trunk” that splits into four “branches” of different heights and colors at the top.
The tower was the result of an international competition in the early 2000s. The Florentine studio won with a concept that, unlike the traditional American skyscraper definition (per Louis Sullivan), drew inspiration from Italian towers like Florence’s Palazzo della Signoria and Milan’s Torre Velasca.
The project took over 18 years to complete due to economic factors and the 2019 earthquake, which the building survived with remarkable structural integrity despite its innovative design.
Notably, this building has two foundations: one at six floors below ground for the parking lot, and another on the first basement level that supports the entire tower structure.
The building houses offices, a spa, a rooftop pool, the Israeli Embassy, a panoramic restaurant, and even a helipad.
Key figures:
- Max height: 105 meters
- Excavation depth: 27 meters (hosting 100+ parking spaces)
- Contains 450 windows
Downtown One
While the first two are right on the square, this one is slightly further away, closer to the park.
Location: Downtown One
Also designed by MVRDV (the creators of the Pyramid), this skyscraper is 140 meters tall with 37 floors. It is notable for its pixelated map of Albania on the facade. Each cantilevered projection symbolizes a town in Albania.
Park Gate
The Park Gate Residence was designed by X-Plan Studio.
Location: Park Gate
Design began in 2013-2014 and was one of the most complex projects of its time. The structure rises to 7 and 13 floors, with two volumes that interweave to create an 18-meter high and 20-meter wide space opening into the park. It was a structural revolution, built with reinforced concrete rather than steel. The colors were suggested by German architects Bolles + Wilson to represent a bold new trend in Albanian architecture, blending with the park colors in spring and autumn.
Lion Park Residence
Located across the street from Park Gate.
Location: Lion Park Residence
Developed and designed by Ales Construction, this building is famous for its unique curved balconies resembling waves and its lush greenery. The 13-story project is a true piece of art in the heart of the city. Apartment rentals start at 2,000 Euros per month.
Lake Views Complex
Designed by the Dutch studio JA Joubert Architecture. Located near the Grand Park of Tirana, these buildings overlook a water park and pools in the summer.
The Rotterdam-based firm gave the complex a wavy form to “blend with the landscape.” To maximize light and nature views, each tower has cascading terraces with plants mimicking the nearby mountains.
The Pyramid
Just an 8-minute walk (800 meters) from the square is the famous Pyramid of Tirana.
Location: Pyramid of Tirana
The Pyramid was recently reimagined by the Dutch architecture firm MVRDV. Originally built in 1988, it was intended as a museum/mausoleum for Enver Hoxha. It was the most expensive project in Albania, built at a time of extreme poverty. After the regime fell, it served as a radio station, a nightclub, and even a NATO base during the Kosovo War.
The architects kept the “skeleton” but made it open and vibrant. Brightly colored cubes have been added inside and around the structure, housing cafes, studios, offices, and classrooms where young Albanians learn digital skills for free.
Bunkers and Bunk’Art Museums
Bunkers are Tirana’s trademark. There are roughly 700,000 in the country (one for every three people). You see them everywhere: in the city center, on the coast, and in the mountains. While most are abandoned, two have been turned into excellent museums.
Bunk’Art 1
Location: Hoxha’s Bunker
Located near the cable car station, it’s best to combine these two visits. It’s a large, deep nuclear bunker built into Dajti Mountain in the 1970s to hide Hoxha and the political elite. It has 106 rooms and remained a secret until 2014.
Price: 900 Lek
Hours: Mon – Sun: 09:30 – 16:30
Bunk’Art 2
Location: Bunk’Art 2
Located right in the center, next to Skanderbeg Square. It was built for the Ministry of Interior to protect against nuclear/chemical attacks. It focuses primarily on the Sigurimi (secret police).
If you have time, choose Bunk’Art 1. If you are in a rush, choose Bunk’Art 2.
Dajti Ekspres Cable Car
Location: Tirana Cable Car
Cafes and Restaurants
Albanian cuisine is very similar to Italian; pasta and pizza are everywhere. It’s also incredibly affordable and prices are consistent across most places.
Recommendations:
- Amo Sushi – Excellent sushi boats and bowls.
- Laguna Pizza & Ice Cream – Great for pizza by the slice in the center.
- Ottos Restocafé – Perfect for breakfast (eggs and coffee).
Parking in Tirana is difficult; it’s best to walk or take a bus within the city. For traveling around the country, we recommend renting a car via localrent—no credit card needed and no hidden fees.
All Locations on the Map
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