Shkodër is the third most populous city in Albania, located in the north of the country, right on the border with Montenegro.
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Shkodër Travel Guide
Historians believe that Shkodër was founded in the 6th century BC, which is also when the Rozafa Fortress was established. Naturally, it was rebuilt many times and changed hands frequently, much like Albania itself, which throughout its history has been Roman, Byzantine, Serbian, and Ottoman. Albania gained its independence in 1912 after the fall of the Ottoman Empire. However, it was only in 1913, following the London Conference, that Shkodër officially became part of Albania; before that, it was claimed by Serbia and Montenegro.
According to the 1920 census, 20,000 people lived in Shkodër; today, the population is just over 110,000.
The center of Shkodër is quite charming. The old houses and the pavement have been restored, making it a lovely place for an evening stroll. In the center, besides small shops and restaurants, there isn’t much else to see.
Shkodër serves as a hub for tourists traveling to the most beautiful places in Albania — Theth and Valbona.
Rozafa Fortress
Entrance fee to the fortress: 400 LEK
Entrance fee to the museum inside the fortress: additional 200 LEK
Parking near the fortress: 200 LEK
Located 4 kilometers from the center of Shkodër, on a 130-meter high hill, lies Rozafa Fortress — or more accurately, the ruins of the fortress.
According to legend, the fortress was being built by three brothers, but their work kept collapsing. Soon they met an old man who told them they must wall up the woman who would be the first to meet them the next day. The following day, the youngest brother’s wife brought lunch to everyone, thus becoming the first woman the brothers encountered. A deal is a deal, and the youngest brother’s wife was walled into the structure. From here, the legends diverge slightly, and you can choose the version you like best. In the first version, the woman had a young son, so to feed him, the infant was also walled in. In another version, to allow her to care for the baby, they left her right breast exposed for feeding, her right eye to watch over him, her right hand to hold him, and her right foot to rock the cradle. The fortress was named Rozafa in her honor.
Mesi Bridge
Mesi Bridge is located 8 km from the center of Shkodër.
The bridge was built in the 18th century by the Ottoman Empire and has remained remarkably well-preserved to this day. While a car cannot cross it — simply because it is too narrow — there are no obstacles for pedestrians and cyclists. We spent about an hour on the bridge, sitting on the edge, drinking hot tea from a thermos, watching the bright turquoise river water and the fast current, while a shepherd led a flock of sheep home across the neighboring bridge.
Restaurants
Mrizi i Zanave
One of the best restaurants in Albania — Mrizi i Zanave, is located in Lezhë, 28 km from Shkodër. It is situated on the road between Tirana and Shkodër. I wrote about this restaurant in great detail in my Albania Travel Guide, but here I just want to mention that absolutely everything they serve is homemade: wine, cheeses, ham; they have their own farm, geese, goats, and vineyards.
Another unique feature of this restaurant is the lack of a menu. It might be intimidating at first, but then you realize it’s part of the charm. The menu changes quite often, so there’s no point in printing it. Don’t worry about the prices — our lunch for 4 adults and a child, including meat and wine, came to 6500 LEK.
Kompleksi Dea
One of the most beautiful restaurants in Albania. The emphasis here is on the grounds. There are many fish ponds, various installations made of bushes and flowers, and the tables are located in treehouses right above the lake. The prices here, as in most of Albania, are comparable to other places; there are no astronomical costs. If you are traveling with children, this is a “must visit.” I don’t think you’ll find another place in Albania so geared towards children.
Location: Kompleksi Dea
Shirokë
Shirokë is a village located 6 km from Shkodër. It sits on Lake Skadar. In Shkodër, you can rent a bicycle to ride along the lake and visit Shirokë. I 100% recommend it. Shirokë is a mecca for incredibly delicious restaurants serving chef’s signature dishes. We visited Flaer Bar and unanimously decided that their signature dish — black fagottini with truffle sauce — was mind-blowing. However, the other dishes were also worthy of the highest praise.
Where to Stay in Shkodër
Our first visit to Shkodër was at the end of February, when the sun had already started to warm things up, but the evenings were still quite cold. On cloudy days, we preferred sitting in the warmth with hot mulled wine rather than walking through the streets and mountains. For late February, one of our search criteria for a hotel was a jacuzzi. And we found the perfect hotel, perhaps one of the best in Albania. Here, I finally understood what it means to be not just a lodger, but a true guest. I found the Ervini Boutique Hotel for us.
How to Get There
There are regular buses from Tirana to Shkodër. Buses depart from the bus station in Tirana every 30 minutes; you don’t need to buy a ticket in advance. Just go to the bus station, find the right bus, and pay for your ticket inside the bus.
However, it is always more convenient to travel by car. You can stop at beautiful locations along the way, and the interesting sites in Shkodër are somewhat far apart. In Albania, we always rent a car through the service localrent. Their prices are very reasonable, and most importantly, there are no hidden fees or charges for car washing at the end of the rental that equal the cost of the rental itself. They even have convertibles!
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