Albania is a highly popular tourist destination. From north to south, it is washed by two seas: the Adriatic and the Ionian. In Albania, four main cities attract the largest influx of tourists from all over the world: Durrës, Vlorë, Saranda, and Ksamil. However, in our opinion, the best beaches are located in entirely different places. I wholeheartedly adore Qeparo and Himara for their beaches, crystal-clear sea, narrow streets, and the abundance of flowers along those streets.
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How to Get There
Qeparo and Himara are among my favorite resort towns in Albania. They are actually more like villages than towns.
Qeparo is located 3 km from Borsh and 206 km from Tirana. You can get here by bus from Tirana, but public transport in Albania is a very unpredictable phenomenon. Albania is probably the first country I’ve visited where it’s almost impossible to travel without a rental car. We always rent a car through this rental aggregator; there are no hidden fees or extra charges tucked away in the fine print under three asterisks.
The Sea
The season in Albania begins in early June. Before June, the water temperature is still quite low, and almost no one swims. Generally, not only in Qeparo but on all Albanian beaches, the seawater is like a “layer cake” — due to underground springs, the warm, sun-heated sea water can suddenly turn chilly and then warm again.
In Qeparo, there are two beaches. There is a long beach that stretches along the entire village where you can find sunbeds. However, it seems that there are far fewer hotels and rooms than there are sunbeds on the beach, so there is plenty of space. You can rent a sunbed for the whole day, or you can simply spread out your own towel and umbrella. Unlike in Ksamil, no one will say a word to you here.
I would especially like to mention the promenade in Qeparo. It is about 2 kilometers long and strictly for pedestrians — most importantly, no cars are allowed here.
There is also a small beach called Gjiri i Këndesave.
This is a tiny cove beach, hidden from prying eyes between two cliffs. It is a private beach; while they don’t charge for entry, you aren’t allowed to just lie on your own towel — you have to pay 10 euros to rent a sunbed.
On the beach, there are a few small restaurants and shops, but that’s it. Prices in the restaurants are quite average for Albania.
Hotels
In Qeparo, hotel prices rise rapidly in June, but budget options are still available. There isn’t as much housing as there are sunbeds, so the beach always feels quite spacious compared to Ksamil.
We came to Qeparo because I fell in love with one specific hotel: Qeparo Napolon Complex.
If you stay here, you should definitely book a family room. They come with a sea view on one side, and on the balcony of each family room, there is a private plunge pool. The pool is small, about 2 meters by 1 meter, but in the evening after a hot day, it’s lovely to soak in the cool water while overlooking the sea and the stars.
What to See Nearby
Qeparo is a very small village with a few small hotels, a beautiful sea, and a promenade. There are about five restaurants, all on the waterfront. There is nothing else in Qeparo itself. I think it’s the perfect place to spend a day or two after more active travels, as you might get bored otherwise. However, we found several unique and incredibly interesting locations in the surrounding area.
Ali Pasha Castle in Porto Palermo and Night Concerts
Address: Ali Pasha Castle in Porto Palermo
Entrance: 300 lek
The fortress was built in the 19th century by order of Ali Pasha of Tepelena, who was famous for his independence from the Ottoman Empire.
The fortress has a triangular shape. Inside, there are several rooms such as a kitchen, a soldiers’ room, an officers’ room, and even a prison. These rooms are only identifiable by the signs at the entrance, as they don’t differ much from one another in reality. Almost nothing from the original interior has been preserved.
I wouldn’t say it’s an exceptionally exciting location, but when it’s 35 degrees Celsius outside and walking is impossible, spending an hour in the cool fortress is a great idea.
In late July and August, the castle hosts a stunning classical music festival. Every night, different musicians perform, and given the incredible acoustics inside the castle walls, the festival is truly magical.
Official festival website: https://www.portopalermofestival.com/
The roof offers a panoramic view of the bay and the surrounding area.
The Rock-Integrated Bridge and Water Slides
Just a 20-minute drive from Qeparo lies what I’d call a hidden gem of Albania. We happened to drive by and noticed a sign from the road. I hadn’t seen any previous information about this place, so I want to tell other travelers about this miracle. The sign from the road was quite inconspicuous; you could easily drive past and not notice it.
Location: Bridge of Brataj
This is a natural site, so it is absolutely free. There is a cafe only on the highway by the parking area; there is nothing down by the bridge itself.
A trail leads down from the parking lot, taking about 10 minutes. As expected, the descent is easier and faster than the climb back up. Watch your step — we met a cute turtle, but I’m sure snakes live here too.
Three wonders await you below:
- The bridge.
This bridge dates back to the 16th century and is located near the village of Brataj. It has existed for over five centuries and connects the two banks of the Shushicë River. The bridge is 9 meters high and 30 meters long. While there are many beautiful bridges in Albania, this one is unique because it is built right across a massive boulder.
2. The view.
Down by the bridge, you get a stunning view of the mountains and the canyon through which the bridge spans.
3. The mountain river.
You might expect it to be cold, but in June, it is incredibly warm. It’s clean, warm, fresh water. Many fish live here; you can sit on a rock and watch them swim or jump out of the water in schools. Plus, there’s a fantastic natural attraction: the river has a strong current in some spots. You can sit under the bridge, and the water will carry you downstream for several dozen meters. we loved it and spent several hours “riding” the current here.
Why Not Durrës?
From the north down to Vlorë, Albania is washed by the Adriatic Sea. Durrës is located on the Adriatic coast. The beaches here are mostly sandy, and the water entry is very shallow. It’s so shallow that you can walk for an hour and the water will still be at your knees. The sand in Durrës is fine and easily kicked up by waves, making the water quite murky.
Why Not Vlorë?
Vlorë is where the Adriatic and Ionian seas merge. The central beach in Vlorë is also shallow with murky water. However, if you drive south, you’ll find beach clubs with beautiful turquoise, transparent water. But beach clubs mean more people and higher prices. You generally have to rent a sunbed (10 euros for the day) and pay for parking at the club.
Map with Main Locations in Qeparo and Surroundings
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