Ninh Binh Travel Guide: What to See, Hotels, and How to Get There
Ninh Binh is a picturesque province in northern Vietnam, located just a two-hour bus ride from Hanoi. Ninh Binh is a very famous place and enjoys huge popularity, especially among European tourists visiting the northern part of Vietnam. First and foremost, Ninh Binh attracts visitors with its pristine nature and unique sights. There are dozens of karst mountains here, with rivers flowing between them. Locals offer fascinating river boat tours, and between the rocks lie rice fields where you can ride bicycles. There are plenty of caves and grottos here, and any self-respecting tourist will walk their feet to blisters to visit at least a dozen of them. And there’s also a pleasant atmosphere, friendly guesthouses, and affordable food prices in the restaurants.
Navigation:
Hotels in Ninh Binh: Where to Stay
What to See in Ninh Binh: Main Attractions
- River Boat Tour Along the Karst Rocks
- Bich Dong Pagoda in the Rock
- Hang Mua Viewpoint and Pagoda
- A Beautiful and Quiet Place Between the Mountains with a Cave Temple (Tuyệt Tịnh Cốc)
- The Most Delicious Cafe in Tam Coc
Our Review and Trip Impressions
How to Get to Ninh Binh from Hanoi
Undoubtedly, people go to Ninh Binh for the stunning landscapes: looking at karst mountains from a boat, looking at karst mountains from another karst mountain, and exploring caves and grottos. Something like that)
So, in order, Day 1. We arrived in Ninh Binh, checked into our hotel in the Tam Coc area, rented bicycles, and went to explore the surroundings.
All tourists explore the local areas on bicycles. Often, hotels provide them for free, but at our hotel, I paid 50,000 VND per day. Motorbikes (scooters) are not very popular among foreigners here. Our neighbor from the hotel was stopped by the police, and because she didn’t have an international driving permit, her motorbike was impounded. She had to pay a veeeery big fine.
Where to Stay in Ninh Binh: Choosing a Hotel
When planning a trip to Vietnam, keep in mind that there is absolutely nothing to do or see in Ninh Binh city itself. Therefore, don’t waste your time and head straight to the tourist village of Tam Coc. Tam Coc is home to the main locations and a huge selection of really cool guesthouses. Mostly young people come here, so businesses have adapted and offer corresponding services. As for hotels in Ninh Binh, they mostly rent out cozy bungalows on the riverbank, where tourists are taken on boat rides to see the karst mountains. Almost everywhere there is a pool and upbeat music playing all day long.
Hotels in Tam Coc are all roughly the same; I didn’t see any outright terrible options here. We chose Tam Coc Bungalow for ourselves. A cozy little house, comfortable beds, a large pool, and breakfast in the morning cost us a little less than $20 per day.
Unfortunately, I found a really cool hotel only when I was writing this article. If I had found it earlier, I would have definitely stayed only there. Take a look — a house over lavender fields or bungalows on the rocks. Please write your review in the comments later.
But we also stayed in a very cozy place: there are about a dozen bungalows in a fenced area, a pool, and common areas with swings. Normal music plays all day, and in the evenings, everyone chills on the sunbeds.
What to See in Ninh Binh: Main Attractions
River Boat Tour
First of all, I advise you to go on a river excursion. And the earlier you do it, the better. We went at 11 AM, and the sun in Vietnam shows absolutely no mercy to people on open water closer to noon. It’s a miracle we didn’t get sunstroke, although it was quite cloudy. By the end of the trip, we were just lying on the floor of the boat under the seats, escaping the scorching rays.
Boat tours in Ninh Binh have become popular worldwide not only because of the beautiful rivers and rocks but also because of the unique rowing style — not with hands, but with feet. And although this is physically hard work, it’s mostly pensioners and women working here. I’m not saying this is a strict rule, but my observations were exactly that.
In Ninh Binh province, there are two main places where you can go on a water excursion: in the village of Tam Coc (where we stayed) and from the neighboring village of Trang An.
River Tour in Tam Coc
Address: Boat dock in Tam Coc
Tour Duration: 1.5 hours
Price: A boat can fit 2 foreigners or 4 locals. You need to pay 150,000 VND for the boat itself + buy a ticket for each person at 120,000 VND. Accordingly, 2 adults must pay 390,000 VND for the excursion.
The Tam Coc tour takes place on the Ngo Dong River. Almost the entire route goes along rice fields, so you can watch flocks of white egrets wandering in search of food. The river passes right through 3 caves in the mountains. Notably, the caves were formed naturally as a result of the rocks being washed away by this very river. After the third cave, there is a small floating market. But don’t expect the vibe of Thai floating markets. In Tam Coc, about 4 or 5 women spend the whole day offering tourists water, beer, and snacks from their boats. A beer, for example, costs 50,000 VND. Overall, it’s not that expensive, but twice as much as in restaurants on land. If you don’t want to buy anything for yourself, the vendors will persistently ask you to buy a treat for your boat rower. But this is entirely up to you.
Tam Coc has a slightly more controversial reputation compared to Trang An precisely because they often beg for tips here. This is only partly true. After our excursion, we felt very sick: for the last 15 minutes, we were just lying on the floor of the boat waiting for it all to end — the heat and motion sickness did their job. Of course, I didn’t even think about tipping. The boatman, having dropped us off on the shore, tried to say something about money, but we left because at that moment I really didn’t understand what he wanted.
River Tour in Trang An
If in Tam Coc there is only one route to choose from, the Trang An excursion offers three different routes, which differ in price, duration, and the set of locations.
Address: Start of the boat tour along the karst mountains in Trang An
On average, tourist routes here last about three hours. But you don’t just sail in a boat the whole time; you also land on small islands to explore temples. I especially want to highlight route #2: tourists are dropped off on an island where the Hollywood movie “Kong: Skull Island” was filmed; some sets from the shooting have even been preserved there.
Price: 250,000 VND per adult and 120,000 VND per child.
Bich Dong Pagoda in the Rock
Perhaps one of the most famous pagodas in the vicinity of Ninh Binh. It is located right in the village of Tam Coc. By bicycle from our hotel, we got here in about 10 minutes. The road goes along smooth asphalt, and riding is very comfortable: no cars, no pedestrians, but also no shade. So definitely bring hats, ideally with a fan in the visor.
Address: Bich Dong Pagoda in Tam Coc
Entrance fee: Free
But at the entrance, local enterprising grannies are on duty around the clock, having organized paid parking for motorbikes and bicycles. To leave our bikes, they started asking us for 20,000 VND, but we haggled a bit and agreed on 5,000 VND. In general, everywhere in Ninh Binh they try to collect parking fees; I haven’t encountered this on such a scale in any other region of Vietnam.
Bich Dong Pagoda, according to legend, was built in the 15th century. And its most important feature is that it is carved right inside the rock. It is not the only cave pagoda in the region, but due to its proximity to Tam Coc, it has become the most famous and popular.
This was our first location in Ninh Binh, and we really liked it. The pagoda is hidden inside a karst rock, the rock is surrounded by water, and to get inside, you need to cross a picturesque stone bridge. This is an ideal place for photoshoots in Vietnam. I can’t say it became our absolute favorite, but it’s definitely worth allocating 30 minutes for it. Later I will tell you about another cave temple, which is not as well-known to tourists, but is surrounded by pineapple fields.
If you walk around Bich Dong Pagoda, you can reach a lake with blooming lotuses, where they also offer boat rides.
And I particularly want to note the local cafe in this place:
- First, it is located in the shade, so you can catch your breath after the heat here. Although the pagoda territory is small, you will constantly have to climb up and down steep stairs.
- Second, I thought the prices here would be inflated due to a lack of competition. But it turned out to be even slightly cheaper here than in the center of Tam Coc.
- Third, you can leave your bike near the cafe completely free of charge and avoid paying the parking attendants. You’ll want to drink a cold coffee after visiting the pagoda anyway, so feel free to leave your transport at the table.
- Fourth, the view from here is very beautiful. You sit, enjoy the scenery, and don’t need to climb any mountain.
Hang Mua Viewpoint and Pagoda
Undeniably one of the main attractions of Ninh Binh is the Hang Mua Peak viewpoint at the top of the mountain.
It is quite easy to get here by bicycle: from the Trang An complex, it’s a 5 km ride, and from Tam Coc, it’s only 4 km. The route from Tam Coc runs through beautiful rice fields, making the trip even more attractive.
Address: Hang Mua Viewpoint
Entrance fee: 100,000 VND
We’ve already looked at the karst mountains from the water; now it’s time to look at the water and the valley from a bird’s-eye view. Ninh Binh province is often called “Halong Bay on land,” and the most canonical view opens up exactly from here. You pay 100,000 VND not only for the opportunity to climb 500 steep steps to the top of the mountain, but also for a walk along the wooden boardwalks over the lotus lake (where locals collect leeches!), and the opportunity to visit several caves. Overall, the park territory is very well-kept and invites you for a walk.
And from the top, of course, a stunning panoramic view of the surroundings opens up. People come here specifically to look at the karst valleys from the highest point!
Secret Place: Tuyệt Tịnh Cốc (Am Tien)
Address: A beautiful and quiet place between the mountains with a cave temple
An amazing location that almost no bloggers talk about. We found it completely by accident, and I highly recommend adding this place to your itinerary if you are planning a trip to Ninh Binh. Initially, we were cycling from Tam Coc to the largest pagoda, Bai Dinh. The distance is about 20 km. On the one hand, not that far, but pedaling with a child on the back seat at a temperature of +43°C was extremely tough. And somewhere in the middle of the way, we stumbled upon this insanely beautiful and quiet place.
First, right at the entrance there are endless fields of pineapples. Pineapples grow on low bushes, straight from the ground. And if you’ve never seen how they grow in the wild, you definitely need to stop here.
Second, the lake itself is surrounded by high mountains on all sides, so the valley is in the shade, and you can get at least a little escape from the heat here.
Most of this unique area (Am Tien) is occupied by a flooded valley squeezed by rocky cliffs. Passing through a dark carved tunnel, you will discover a hidden clear lagoon. Flocks of sparkling goldfish live in this water. Small boats float on the lake, which you can ride to admire the majestic beauty of the ancient capital of Vietnam. This picturesque place used to be called Giai Pond. According to legend, King Dinh threw prisoners here to be eaten by a giant soft-shelled turtle. But now it is just an incredibly romantic location where newlyweds often come for wedding photoshoots.
Where to Eat Well: Minh Khoi Restaurant and Foods Banh Mi
Address: Minh Khoi Restaurant and Foods Banh Mi
Usually, we write separate articles about food in Asia, because in a few days you manage to visit many cafes and compile your own rating. But with Ninh Binh, the situation is different. Every day — for lunch and dinner — we went to the exact same place (yes, breakfast was included in our hotel, but we still often came here because they cook amazingly well). Their signature dish is the Vietnamese “Banh Mi” sandwich. It is insanely delicious; nowhere else in Vietnam have we eaten such a perfect Banh Mi. In general, the menu here is huge: mango pancakes and chicken in coconut milk stuck in our memory for a long time.
Reviews of Ninh Binh: Our Impressions of the Trip
We came to northern Vietnam for 9 days to solve a visa issue, back when you didn’t have to do complicated visa runs, but could simply hand in your passport for an extension and get the coveted stamp for another month completely free of charge. My itinerary around Vietnam was roughly like this:
Hanoi — 3 days
Sapa — 3 days
Ninh Binh — 2 days
We purposefully didn’t buy return tickets and decided to act according to the circumstances: if we liked a place, we’d stay longer; if it didn’t click, we’d leave. Initially, I wanted to include a cruise in Halong Bay in the plan, but we had absolutely no energy left by the end of the trip. In the end, we stuck to the original layout, but now I realize we should have traveled at a more relaxed pace. Our daily walks reached up to 25 km, and on the 8th day, our legs simply said they wouldn’t go anywhere else.
I read a lot on forums that it’s better to go to Ninh Binh on your own, rather than taking a package tour. But looking back, I can advise you to still consider the option of a guided tour from Hanoi.
First, our trip fell in the middle of April. Already at this time of the year, it was +37°C in Ninh Binh, which, due to the high tropical humidity, felt like a full +43°C. It is customary to move between locations on a bicycle in the province. Now imagine what it’s like: riding a bike for 5 km in the scorching sun at +43°C, then climbing 500 steps up a high mountain, and then having to return to the hotel! It is genuinely physically hard. In those moments, I sincerely dreamed of just sitting in a tourist bus with powerful air conditioning.
Second, in the administrative center itself (Ninh Binh city), there is no tourist infrastructure. All travelers go to live in the village of Tam Coc. The main attractions can be seen in one or two days. But if you want to go on the boats in the neighboring village of Trang An, you will have to pedal 7 km one way. And to the largest pagoda, Bai Dinh, it’s a whole 25 km. The numbers seem small, but let me remind you about the blazing sun and temperatures over forty degrees.
Third, the logistics of independent travel are not the most convenient. Almost all intercity buses and trains arrive at the Ninh Binh city station, and from there you still need to take a taxi for about 6 km to Tam Coc. We arrived at 5 AM, and the Grab app showed “0 available cars.” We decided to go grab a bite somewhere and wait for public transport. As a result, after two hours of wandering through the sleeping city, we walked to Tam Coc on foot. Yes, that’s right: on the way we didn’t encounter A SINGLE open cafe! And there is simply no public transport (buses) from Ninh Binh to Tam Coc. Cars appeared in Grab, but much later in the day.
Hence my main advice: if you are short on time or afraid of the heat, take a guided tour to Ninh Binh from Hanoi. Just don’t choose the cheapest program — make sure the itinerary definitely includes a visit to the Hang Mua Peak viewpoint.
How to Get to Ninh Binh from Hanoi on Your Own
If you are still firmly decided to go to Ninh Binh on your own, then this guide is for you. There is nothing easier than getting here from the capital of Vietnam. From Hanoi, there are regular sleeper buses and comfortable tourist minibuses (limousines), as well as trains — and there are plenty of departures throughout the day. Travel time is about 2 hours, and the ticket price is around $7-8.
P.S. Limousines in Vietnam (VIP Limousine) are a comfortable analog of shuttle buses. They fit about 11-12 people, but inside there are wide leather seats that recline, often equipped with USB chargers and even built-in massage so your back doesn’t get stiff during the journey.
Great tickets for such limousines can be found on Klook. Their main convenience is that the minivan can often take you straight to your hotel in Tam Coc without a transfer in Ninh Binh city itself, and at the same price.
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